Believe it or not,
a goldfish should
live for 10 to 25 years or longer if it's given the proper care.
The Guinness Book of World Records cites a goldfish named Tish that
lived 43 years after being won at a fair in England in 1956! Here's
how to help your scaly companion survive into the "golden years."
- Purchase the largest possible tank for your goldfish.
While using a 2.5 gallon tank instead of a small bowl will increase
longevity, albeit not by much, 10 gallons per fish or more is
necessary for quality of life.Choose a tank with a large surface
area to increase the amount of oxygen in contact with the surface
of the water (i.e., wider is better than taller).
- Set up the tank prior to the purchase of fish. Getting it ready
may take two or more weeks. It is necessary to build up enough good
bacteria to break down the fish's wastes. To do this, do the
"Fishless Cycle" (see external links below). Once completed, your
Goldfish aquarium will have more than enough bacteria to break down
the wastes your fish will produce. Failure to cycle a tank will
result in ammonia poisoning.
- Provide mental and physical stimulation for the fish. Decorate
the tank with gravel, bridges, plants, etc. Gravel provides a place
for good bacteria to grow, and goldfish like to hide and swim
through little buildings and bridges. Rearrange the bridges and
plants on a monthly basis to offer the goldfish "new" areas to
explore.
- Add a filter. Either a large internal or an external is best,
as goldfish are very messy creatures. Without a filter, smaller
tanks will foul and become deadly in just a day or two. Keep in
mind that having a filter doesn't mean you can avoid cleaning the
tank. Even with a filter, change 20% to 50% of the water about once
every week.
- Add some equipment to increase oxygen diffusion into the water.
A powerhead is best, although some fancies will not like the
current. If this is the case, a small air pump and air stone is
sufficient.
- Clean the tank at least once a month, but more frequently is
preferable due to the large amount of waste goldfish produce. This
is essential. How often you do this will depend on the size of your
tank, the number of fish, and the effectiveness of the
filter.
- When you add/change water, use a dechlorinator that also
removes chloramine and heavy metals as per instructions.
- Frequently test for ammonia and nitrite. A pH test is also
handy to ensure your goldfish's water is not too alkaline or
acidic. This can be purchased at any pet store. Do not modify the
fish's water, however, unless it is significantly different from
neutral. Goldfish can tolerate a wide pH range, and pH modifying
chemicals are not a lasting solution without more consistent
monitoring than most people will do. A range of pH 6.5-8.25 is
fine. Many municipal water supplies buffer their water up to around
7.5, and goldfish will live very happily in this range.
- Do not remove the goldfish during a water change. Using a
gravel vacuum to suck debris out of the gravel can be done with the
fish in the tank. Frequent partial water changes are better than
full (and stressful) water changes.
- If you do need to catch your fish, consider using a
plastic container rather than a net, as the fish can injure its
fins and scales while thrashing around. This also increases stress!
If a net is the only option, soak it prior to use. Dry nets are
much more likely to cause injury than wet ones.
- Allow the water temperature to change as the seasons change.
While goldfish don't like temperatures over 75°F (24°C), they do
seem to like seasonal variations where the temperature falls to the
high 50s or 60s (15-20°c) in the winter. Fancier goldfish are an
exception and cannot easily tolerate temperatures below about 60°F
(16°c). Be aware that goldfish will not eat below 50-55°F
(10-14°c).
- Feed the goldfish once or twice daily with food specifically
designed for goldfish. If you choose to feed them twice, then
reduce the size of the meals. Give them only as much as they can
eat in a few minutes, and clean any leftovers immediately. If a
floating food is used, soak it in water for a few seconds before
feeding so that it will sink. This reduces the amount of air the
fish swallows while eating, which in turn reduces the risk of
flotation problems.

- Be sure to regularly clean leftover food and waste from the
gravel. You can do this by using a siphon.
- If the air pump is too strong for the size of the tank, you may
place a clip or commercially available valve on the tubing and
reduce the amount of bubbles.
- Never use a tank under ten gallons unless it is temporary (i.e.
less than a week). Anything smaller will stunt the fish leading to
many health problems, and can be considered cruel.
- Carbon is a valuable component of filtration IF it is replaced
monthly.
- Goldfish can grow to be over 12 inches long if put in tanks or
ponds that are large enough! However, contrary to popular belief,
fish do not stay the size of their tank. Do not purchase a too
small tank and expect the fish to stay that size.
- Test your water for pH, hardness, and alkalinity initially. If
your water is soft, adding some oyster shells to a mesh bag is good
as it can help raise the hardness and buffer the water. Goldfish
like water with a pH of 7 to 8 and moderate hardness.
- Many people use aquarium salt with goldfish, however, this is
usually unnecessary.
- Test the levels of Nitrite and Ammonia regularly. Ammonia and
nitrite are very poisonous and any level over 0 PPM is bad. If the
readings are above 0 PPM check more frequently and do more frequent
water changes. Nitrate is tolerated up to levels of about 40
PPM. You should be able to get more detailed info about your
particular goldfish's tolerance for these chemicals from any good
pet store.
[edit]
Warnings
- Avoid using gravel that is sharp or of such size as the fish
can get it stuck in their mouths. "Pea" gravel or sand works
best.
- Be careful when adding multiple goldfish to the same tank, as
they can spread diseases. When at the pet store, check to make sure
the fish looks healthy. If there is an abnormal number of dead
fish, then use caution when buying. New fish should be quarantined
away from the old fish to reduce the spreading of parasites,
bacteria, and/or fungus.
- If you are worried about the quality of the tap water in your
area, call your local pet store and ask if the water is usable for
fish. Your local government should be able to give you a water
quality report if you have city water. This report will give you an
idea of the local water chemistry.
- Be sure there is no soap or detergent residue in the container
used for water changes. This is poisonous to fish.
- Water heaters are prone to malfunctioning and can stay on even
after they are set to turn off, so monitor them with a thermometer.
Most modern heaters work well and should not malfunction.
- Be careful when transporting your goldfish. Stress can reduce
the lifespan of a goldfish.
- Get a top or lid for the tank so your goldfish cannot jump
out.
- Many cities put chloramine in water rather than chlorine.
Chloramine does not evaporate and must be removed by adding an
additional chemical. Check the label of your dechlorinator to
ensure that it also removes chloramine.
- Temperature fluctuation will stress goldfish - try to keep the
temperature as constant as possible.
- It is unhealthy to overfeed your fish. Only feed your fish as
much as directed.
- Remember that some goldfish cannot be kept with other goldfish.
For example, Comets will eat all the food before fancy goldfish can
get to it.
[edit]
Things You'll Need
- Aquarium
- Fish
- Gravel or sand
- Decor
- Complete Water Test Kit
- Filter
- Air Pump or powerhead
- Gravel Vacuum
- plants
- sea shells (to look good)
[edit]
Sources and Citations
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